How to buy a car on mobile.de and bring it to Poland
Most Polish used car imports come from Germany, and mobile.de is where they are found. It is the best place in Europe to buy a used car and the easiest place to pay too much for one. Roughly half of all buyers negotiate nothing at all.
Finding the right listing is the hard part. Everything after it is negotiation.
The short version
- 47 percent of buyers get no discount at all. The biggest saving is asking.
- 5 to 10 percent is normal at a dealer, up to 15 when the car has been sitting.
- A written repair quote beats any argument. Defects are the strongest lever.
- A German dealer owes you a year of statutory warranty. A private seller owes nothing.
- Collecting it costs 205 EUR to 370 EUR per 1,000 km, plus about 150 EUR for export plates.
- No duty and no import VAT on a German car. Akcyza is 3.1 percent under 2,000 cm3, 18.6 above.
Skip ahead: check a car nowwhat Poland charges
Already found the car? The listing tells you what the seller declared. A history check tells you what actually happened before you get there.
Check it before you travel
The listing tells you what the seller declared. A history check tells you what actually happened before you get there.
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Know the number before you speak
Most negotiations are decided before they even begin.
If you do not know what the car is worth, you are negotiating from a weak position. mobile.de can estimate a vehicle value in a couple of minutes and show enough comparable listings to reveal the price range it should sit within.
Run the valuation on the exact specification and write the figure down. Treat it as a range rather than a final answer. The tool cannot see the condition of the specific car in front of you, and condition is exactly what you will be negotiating over.
Where the discount actually comes from
A survey of around one thousand German car buyers found that 47 percent received no discount at all. Among those who did negotiate successfully, the average was 5.7 percent, roughly 915 EUR on a car priced at 18,310 EUR.
Expect 5 to 10 percent at a dealer, and up to 15 percent when conditions are favourable.
| Lever | What it is worth |
|---|---|
| A written repair quote | The exact amount. Dealers rarely argue with a garage estimate |
| Timing belt due | 400 EUR to 900 EUR |
| Tyres worn | 400 EUR to 800 EUR for a replacement set |
| Long time on the market | Pushes you toward the upper end of the range |
| End of month or quarter | Flexibility that does not exist mid-month |
| Season | Spring is cheapest, winter dearest |
A repair quote is the strongest of these by a distance. Arrive with a mechanic estimate and deduct it, and you are not haggling, you are correcting a price.
If the price will not move, move something else
German dealers are more willing to include extras than to reduce the advertised price, because the headline figure is what many dealerships are measured on.
Ask for a free service, winter tyres, an extended warranty or a service package. Each can be worth several hundred euro to you while costing the dealer less than an equivalent cash discount, which is exactly why they agree to it more readily.
Asking for an extra after a discount has been refused works far more often than asking for the discount twice.
Dealer or private, and why it is not only about price
| Dealer | Private seller | |
|---|---|---|
| Price | Higher | Lower |
| Statutory warranty | One year minimum, by law | None |
| Recourse if something fails | Real | Very limited |
| Room to negotiate | 5 to 15 percent | Usually less |
A German dealer sale includes Gewaehrleistung, a statutory liability period of at least one year that cannot simply be removed from the contract. A private seller provides no such protection.
That legal protection is part of what the higher price pays for, which is why the cheapest listing is not automatically the best value. Note the distinction: Gewaehrleistung is required by law, while Garantie is an optional product sold on top, and that one is negotiable.
Reading a German listing
| Term | What it means |
|---|---|
| Unfallfrei | No accident history claimed. A claim, not a guarantee |
| Unfallfahrzeug | Accident vehicle, priced accordingly |
| Nach Unfall instandgesetzt | Repaired after an accident. Ask who repaired it and to what standard |
| HU neu | Fresh roadworthiness inspection. Worth real money |
| HU abgelaufen | Expired. Budget for the test and any repairs it uncovers |
| Scheckheftgepflegt | Full service history. Ask for the book, not the word |
| Bastlerfahrzeug | Project car. Assume repairs are needed |
HU is the German roadworthiness inspection. A car with a recent HU has just been examined by an independent engineer with no incentive to overlook problems, which makes it the closest thing to a free third-party inspection on the platform.
The filter that saves the most money
Polish excise is charged on engine size, and the threshold is brutal.
| Filter | Set it to | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Hubraum, engine capacity | Under 2,000 cm3 | Akcyza jumps from 3.1 to 18.6 percent above it |
| Certificate of Conformity | Ask before you pay | Without it, homologation costs 2,000 to 5,000 zł |
| Schadstoffklasse, emissions class | Euro 5 or better | Cheap Euro 4 cars are cheap for a reason |
A 1,995 cm3 car and a 2,005 cm3 car drive identically and are roughly 1,550 EUR apart in Polish tax. mobile.de lets you filter on capacity directly, and almost nobody does.
Ask for a live video call. Most of it ends right here.
The scams, and how they find you
Most fraud targets buyers who cannot easily inspect the vehicle in person, which means foreign buyers are the preferred target.
Fortunately, most scams fall apart the moment you request a live video call showing the VIN plate, the dashboard and a cold start.
| Signal | What it usually means |
|---|---|
| Far below a tight cluster of comparable listings | Something is undisclosed, or the car does not exist |
| Refuses a live video call | No car, or not the car being advertised |
| Wants to move immediately to WhatsApp | No paper trail wanted |
| Deposit before viewing | Fraud |
| Payment through a personal account, crypto or gift cards | Fraud |
| Offers their own shipping or escrow service | Fraud. Genuine escrow is arranged by the buyer |
| Documents only shown as photographs | The documents may belong to another vehicle |
The moment you buy the car, it is uninsured, registered to somebody else, and not legally ready for you to drive away.
Export plates carry a red band on the right, showing the date they expire.
Export plates, and the mistake that voids your insurance
Most countries offer some form of temporary registration for moving an unregistered vehicle. The distinction that matters is simple.
| Type | Purpose | Crosses a border |
|---|---|---|
| Short-term or trade plates | Movement within the issuing country | No |
| Export plates | Permanent export from the country | Yes |
This is one of the most common mistakes buyers make. Short-term plates are cheaper, easy to obtain, and the registration office will happily sell them to you. Both the plates and the insurance behind them become invalid the moment you leave the issuing country. If you are taking the vehicle abroad, say that you are exporting it.
German export plates, Ausfuhrkennzeichen, are white with a red expiry section, and the insurance behind them remains valid across Europe for the full validity period, which you choose when you buy them.
| Item | Typical cost |
|---|---|
| Plates | around 95 EUR |
| Registration office fee | around 30 EUR |
| Vehicle tax for the validity period | around 15 EUR |
| Total | around 150 EUR |
You will need both parts of the vehicle registration documents, identification, proof of address, valid HU, and an eVB number, the electronic insurance confirmation. Obtaining one takes a few minutes online, and no office will issue export plates without it. It is the requirement people forget.
If the vehicle is not roadworthy, export plates are irrelevant and you need transport instead.
What it actually costs to collect
The collection trip is a real expense and most buyers underestimate it. Some costs are fixed regardless of distance, others rise with every kilometre.
Fixed: flight or train to Germany, 80 EUR to 200 EUR, plus export plates and insurance at around 150 EUR.
Per 1,000 km driven home: fuel 105 EUR to 140 EUR at 6 to 8 l/100 km, tolls 0 EUR to 50 EUR, food 40 EUR to 60 EUR, and one hotel night 60 EUR to 120 EUR. That comes to roughly 205 EUR to 370 EUR per 1,000 km.
| One-way distance | Driving it home | Transporter |
|---|---|---|
| 500 km | 300 EUR to 495 EUR | 300 EUR to 650 EUR |
| 1,000 km | 410 EUR to 710 EUR | 450 EUR to 900 EUR |
| 1,500 km | 550 EUR to 965 EUR | 600 EUR to 1,200 EUR |
| 2,000 km | 625 EUR to 1,100 EUR | 700 EUR to 1,400 EUR |
Transport costs run from about 0.72 to 1.30 euro per kilometre on shorter routes, with the rate per kilometre falling as the distance grows. Under roughly 600 km the hotel stop disappears.
The difference between the two columns is smaller than most people expect, so the choice is about risk rather than money.
Drive it yourself if the listing is the first time you have seen the car. You get to start it, test it and put the first kilometres on it while the seller is still nearby.
Transport it if you have already inspected the vehicle, trust the dealer, or the car cannot be driven.
What Poland charges
A German car is an intra-EU purchase, so there is no customs duty and no import VAT at the border. What remains is one tax and some paperwork on a clock.
| Engine | Akcyza | On a 10,000 EUR car |
|---|---|---|
| Up to 2,000 cm3 | 3.1% | about 310 EUR |
| Above 2,000 cm3 | 18.6% | about 1,860 EUR |
| Fully electric | 0% | exempt |
The paperwork around it runs on a clock, and two of the deadlines start the day the car arrives rather than the day you get round to it.
| Step | Deadline or cost |
|---|---|
| AKC-U declaration | within 14 days of bringing the car in |
| Akcyza payment | within 30 days |
| Sworn translation of the German documents | 200 zł to 500 zł |
| Technical inspection | 100 zł to 200 zł |
| Registration fees | around 200 zł |
Registration cannot proceed without proof the akcyza was paid, so the declaration is not something to leave until you have time. Miss it and the car is legally yours and legally undriveable. Budget roughly 500 zł to 900 zł for the registration side on top of the akcyza.
German dealer cars almost always come with a Certificate of Conformity, which is a quiet reason the German route is cheaper than it looks. Without one you are into individual approval at 2,000 to 5,000 zł and two to six weeks. Ask for it before you pay.
All in, a 10,000 EUR German car with a small engine costs about 10,400 EUR to land and register. The same money spent at a US auction lands at about 18,550 EUR, because that route pays customs duty, import VAT, a broker and ocean freight on top of the same akcyza.
What goes wrong on the way home
The export plate expires before you arrive. You choose the validity period when you buy it. Choose longer than you think you will need.
The insurance does not cover your route. Policies name specific countries. Check every one you will pass through, especially if the route leaves EU territory.
You are too tired to drive safely. A long flight followed by hours in an unfamiliar vehicle is the most dangerous part of the entire purchase. Budget for a hotel.
Before you hand over money
- Establish the market value of the exact specification.
- Obtain the VIN in writing and run a history check.
- Request a video call showing the VIN plate, dashboard and a cold start.
- Confirm the HU status and date, and get repair estimates for visible issues.
- Verify in person that the VIN matches every document.
- Confirm both parts of the vehicle registration papers are present.
- Confirm a Certificate of Conformity exists, or price the homologation.
- Calculate registration costs at home for that exact vehicle.
- Arrange eVB insurance and export plates before travelling.
- Decide your maximum price, and keep every German document afterwards.
The advertised price is the number everybody argues about. Every other number in this article is where the rest of the money goes.
Before you sign anything
Know what you are buying
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Frequently asked questions
Is there customs duty or import VAT on a car bought in Germany?
No. A German car is an intra-EU purchase, so there is no customs duty and no import VAT at the border. What remains is akcyza plus the registration paperwork, which is why the German route lands so much cheaper than a car bought at a US auction.
How much is akcyza on an imported car?
3.1 percent of the value up to 2,000 cm3, and 18.6 percent above it. Fully electric cars are exempt. On a 10,000 EUR car that is the difference between roughly 310 EUR and 1,860 EUR, decided by engine capacity alone.
How long do I have to declare the car after bringing it in?
The AKC-U declaration is due within 14 days of bringing the car into the country and the akcyza itself within 30 days. Registration cannot proceed without proof the akcyza was paid, so missing the deadline leaves the car legally yours and legally undriveable.
What happens if the car has no Certificate of Conformity?
You are into individual approval, at roughly 2,000 to 5,000 zł and two to six weeks. German dealer cars almost always have one, which is a quiet reason the German route is cheaper than it looks. Ask for it before you pay, not after.
About this guide
- Scope: this is the Poland edition. The pan-European edition covers what registration costs elsewhere, and the Germany edition covers the market these cars come from.
- Akcyza and deadlines: rates and the 14 and 30 day deadlines as they apply to a vehicle brought in from another EU member state. Translation, inspection and registration fees are typical ranges, not fixed tariffs.
- Discount figures: from a survey of approximately one thousand German car buyers. The 5.7 percent average is across buyers who negotiated successfully, not across all buyers.
- Plate and travel costs: typical estimates rather than fixed prices. They vary by vehicle, route, insurer and registration office, and are worth confirming for the specific car before you budget from them.
- Listing terms: the German words are left as they appear on the platform, because a translated term cannot be searched for. Unfallfrei in particular is a seller declaration, not a verified fact.
- Why the VIN matters here: a border crossing is where a car paper trail usually goes missing, covered in how to check an imported car, and the mileage side in odometer fraud.
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